Daniel Roseberry, the creative force behind Schiaparelli’s recent resurgence, is known for his audacious, often internet-breaking designs. However, for his Fall/Winter 2024 couture collection, Roseberry surprised audiences with a shift in focus. Titled “Phoenix,” the collection pays homage not only to the mythical bird symbolizing rebirth, but also to the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli herself – a woman who constantly reinvented both her brand and her designs.
While Roseberry acknowledges the immense success of his past, trend-setting creations, he admits to a growing desire for something more enduring. With “Phoenix,” he aimed for “something that felt more timeless,” returning to the roots of classical couture with its focus on expert craftsmanship and hourglass silhouettes.
The collection opened with a breathtaking statement piece: a dramatic cape adorned with silver embroidery meticulously arranged to evoke the image of a gleaming phoenix taking flight. This theme of transformation continued with net circle skirts that flowed into provocative arabesques, revealing glimpses of shimmering gilded bugle bead embroidery beneath.
Roseberry’s signature blend of mastery and wit remained evident throughout the collection. One gown featured hand-applied, hammered brass polka dots, each a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship at the heart of couture. Another striking ensemble paired a nude bodysuit adorned with 3D rose thorns with a flowing gown, the juxtaposition both unexpected and captivating. A final showstopper was a satin corset dress that incorporated high-heeled shoes as the corset cups – a playful nod to a legendary Elsa Schiaparelli hat design.
While Roseberry may have toned down the overt shock factor in this collection, his ability to craft head-turning pieces remains undeniable. “Phoenix” is a captivating journey through couture’s rich history, reinterpreted through Roseberry’s unique lens. It’s a testament to both his respect for the past and his unwavering desire to push boundaries within the world of high fashion.
Photography courtesy of Schiaparelli
