If there is magic in fashion,
It is him, it is him, it is him.
If high fashion is poetry, Rohit Bal was undoubtedly a maestro of language. Intertwining design and history, and tradition with modernity, verse after verse is written until his name is echoed around the world of fashion. After all, an eye for detail this keen doesn’t open every other day.
Humility of the lotus, Vanity of the peacock
“The humility of the lotus that blooms in swamps and the vanity of the peacock have been the two incredibly spectacular opposite forms I have been attracted to all my life,” mused the designer with the prêt-à-porter line named Balance. The quote does make you think of how lovely and ironic a flower is that chooses to bloom in swamps, that symbolize filth, but it itself is a symbol of purity; and how an admirer of the lotus’ humility is also yet an adorer of the peacock’s vanity.
This simultaneous and paradoxical love for simplicity and glamour is reflected in his works, as his most used motifs, the lotus and the peacock often adorn the fabric in the most exquisite and eye-catching of patterns, as well has how he often chose mulmul and khadi fabrics for his designs. These fabrics, known for their lightness and breathability, were transforme under Bal’s vision into regal garments adorned with intricate zardozi embroidery.
Balancing Paradise
Much aptly renowned as the master of ‘Fabric and Fantasy’ by Times, his control over creating elegant and comfortable styles, traditional yet chic, is indeed worthy of such titles. It’s as if when the colors blend perfectly and the painting comes together just right; it’s never too little grandeur and yet never too much. It’s the “Balance” that Rohit Bal achieved.
This delicate interplay between grandeur and simplicity was perhaps a reflection of the landscapes of his childhood, where the beauty of nature reigns supreme. Born and raised amidst the heart of Kashmir’s breathtaking vistas, where art and nature intertwine, it seems fitting that he was a seed which bloomed into such a creative designer, bearing fruits that all in the fashion world would call sweet. I know that once I had a taste, I wanted more, and I lament the fact that he left us too soon. As the place referred to by the Mughal Emperor Jehangir as Paradise on Earth, the heavenly fruit is an apt metaphor for this scenic haven, and for Bal’s designs, as I wonder if I shall regret biting this fruit, chancing upon his art, and getting a taste when I remember with emptiness that there shall be no more.
Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast,
Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast.
If there is a paradise on earth,
It is this, it is this, it is this.
This poem was often quoted by Mughals and poets when referring to something of utmost beauty and wonder, and by emperor Jehangir, who paid annual visits to the paradise of Kashmir.
Gulbagh — Garden of Flowers
Graduating with a degree in history, perhaps he was another that craved the taste of a world gone by, someone who’d heard of all the riches and glamour and splendour that Mughal India was known for, as you can see such inspirations in his works, most of them being anarkalis and sherwanis.
I wonder about it a lot — what would wearing his art feel like?
Wearing his designs would perhaps feel like wearing beloved verses in Urdu — a language created to express poetry. From the leaves, to the feathers, golden threads that sparkle like sunlight and heavy embroidery that symbolize splendour, yet never too much. Stories are all around us, but you wouldn’t have to search too far when you wear history. That’s probably what it would feel like to be dressed as Mughal royalty designed by such a clever artisan. Not just Mughal, though; Rohit Bal took inspirations from the Gupta Dynasty as well as the glamour and royalty of Czarist Russia.
Takht-e-Taus — The Peacock Throne
Surrounded by exquisite craftsmanship and symbols such as lotuses and peacocks, however, it wasn’t nominal royalty he craved, for not everyone can be royal; “I want everyone to afford this kind of beauty as long as the product is chaste,” he revealed, sitting surrounded by opulence in his store, lotus jaalis and accents, each engraving and thoughtful decor adding to the grand painting. Yet, each of these pieces were designed and crafted painstakingly and lovingly by himself, and he didn’t mind sharing beauty with others.
How elegant it is to be humble. We forget that to be royal is to be a giver, and Rohit Bal proved himself to be of utmost royalty when it comes to fashion. Always choosing to buy from street vendors, pulling in local weavers and artisans, and choosing home retailers and collaborators instead of international, he was known for giving people a chance. And sometimes, just that one chance is enough to change a life, the world, everything.
Rohit Bal, who preserved history as well as created it, will remain for long with us, glimpses of his touch felt in the luxurious and grand anarkalis, sherwanis and kurtas that will continue to depict an empire known for art, and more.
Guzar gaya woh zamaana, kaisa kaisa raag tha
Ghazal thi hum, tarana woh,
Khamosh dono ho gaye.
That era has passed, what beautiful melodies it had;
I was a ghazal, and he was a tune,
Now both are silent.
