Milan, traditionally one of the most high-octane fashion cities, shunned theatrics this year and concentrated on wearable fashion. The shows had none of the made-for social media viral moments but focused instead on the practicality of wear. Here are collections that caught our eye at the Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023
Gorgio Armani
The collection took inspiration from the architecture of Milan. Beautifully made three-piece suits in a silky-looking material with distinct movement. It was a contemporary version of their mid-’70s concept but the refurbishment was full of fresh pleasures and unusual touches in a patently Armani’s architecture of style.
Prada
A sharp, minimalist collection — strong on compelling outerwear and youthful tailoring. Modernist precepts of reduction and simplicity combine with their apparent contradictions: comfort, exaggeration, and intimacy. Paradigms of fashion combined with paradigms of Prada. Silhouettes were emphatic, amplified, and attenuated, exploring extreme vicissitude between couture volumes through the architecture of the clothes.
Dolce & Gabbana
The collection featured impeccably tailored suits and masterfully sharp-cut coats, with just a touch of pearl grey and two white pantsuits. The designers said that they were attracted to experimenting with new cuts, jackets cut in a new way, new collars, and new fastenings and that they wanted to enhance the simple complexity of the handmade techniques.
FENDI
Cashmere, logomania, and the lavender colour reigned supreme in the Fendi Fall 2023 collection which was all about “feeling great with fashion during the day but also during the night,” according to creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi. While some pieces exuded comfort, the one-shouldered and asymmetrical ones were a throwback to the disco era of the 70s.
